How to frame a canvas
Have you got a beautiful printed or painted canvas and want to give it a more finished, professional look? Framing a canvas is easier than it looks, and the result completely transforms the artwork. Whether you're starting with a canvas already mounted on a stretcher frame or a print you want to showcase, this guide explains how to create a custom frame that will add character to your decor. Follow the step-by-step instructions for a gallery-worthy finish.
Here's an overview of the different steps for framing your canvas:
| Step | Materials needed | Difficulty | Time required | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Taking measurements | Tape measure, square | Easy | 5 min | 0 € |
| Buying the molding | Wood molding, miter saw | Easy | 15 min | 15-40 € |
| Cutting the corners | 45° miter saw | Medium | 20 min | €0 (if you rent a saw) |
| Assembling the frame | Wood glue, masking tape | Medium | 30 min + drying time | 5-10 € |
| Reinforcement | V-nails or staple gun | Easy | 10 min | 5-15 € |
| Finishing | Sandpaper, varnish or paint | Easy | 30 min + drying time | 10-20 € |
| Attaching the canvas | Screws, screwdriver, drill | Easy | 15 min | 5 € |
Choosing the right wood molding for your frame
We sell a lot of canvas prints on stretcher frames. And our customers often ask us how to give them a little something extra, so they look really professional once they're hung up. The solution? Make a nice wooden frame to go all the way around.
That's exactly what I did with my “Ramen” canvas, which I love. It was already stretched over a frame (the wooden bars that support the canvas), but I wanted to add a wooden border so it would go better with my other pictures and have a little more character.
Good to know: If you're starting from scratch and want to print your own design, pick up a blank canvas already mounted on a stretcher frame at an arts and crafts store. Stretcher frames that are 3-4 cm deep are perfect for this kind of project.
Off to Leroy Merlin, where I bought 120 cm of oak molding for framing (in the carpentry section), with a 45 mm x 30 mm profile. Before buying it, I made sure it was deep enough for my canvas to fit inside and that the front would be flush with the frame.
My advice: There are lots of different styles of molding (oak, pine, paint-grade white wood, with or without trim). Bring your canvas to the store to make sure it fits. And if you prefer color over natural wood, choose pre-primed molding that's ready to paint.
Measure Like a Pro
Using my tape measure and square, I measured the entire outer perimeter of my canvas. A little tip I learned: I always add 4 mm on each side. Why? Because there's often a little extra thickness in the corners of the stretcher frame due to the canvas folds, and above all, it creates a small shadow line inside the frame that looks really nice.
To calculate how much you need: Measure the entire perimeter of your canvas and allow for 10% extra for offcuts and cuts. Strips at the hardware store are generally 120 cm or 240 cm long. For a 30 x 40 cm canvas like mine, 120 cm is more than enough.
Cutting the Corners at 45° (The Technical Part)
Now we come to the point where it's time to get out the miter saw. Don't panic, it's not as complicated as it looks! I set my saw to 45° to the left and first made a small trimming cut at the end of the strip to get a nice, clean angle.
Next, I transferred my measurement from the inside of this corner, measuring along the inside edge of the strip, not behind it. My canvas is 30 cm long, so with my extra 4 mm, my side piece measures 30.4 cm between the two corners.
Golden rule: Always cut your long pieces first. That way, if you make a mistake, you can still cut them down to make the shorter pieces. This helps avoid wasting wood.
Next, I tilted my saw 45° to the right for the next cut and checked the length before cutting the second identical side piece.
Very important: Position your saw blade right next to the marking line, not directly on it. The blade is about 3 mm thick, and if you cut down the middle of the line, you'll lose that much material from your piece.
Once I had cut all my pieces, I placed them back to back to check that they were exactly identical. Then I test-fitted them around the canvas and gave the cut edges a quick sand with 180-grit sandpaper to remove any splinters.
Gluing the Pieces Together
I got out my white wood glue (the standard Sader or Pattex kind) and applied some to the angled ends. Then I assembled everything, holding the joints together with blue painter's tape. You know, the kind you use to protect the baseboards when repainting.
Pro tip: Wood glue dries clear, but keep a damp cloth handy to wipe off any squeeze-out. It's always easier than scraping it off once it's dry.
I then wrapped the blue tape all the way around the frame, pulling it tight so everything stayed firmly in place. And there we go! I left it to dry flat for 2-3 hours. Go make a coffee, watch an episode of a show—you really need to give the glue time to do its job.
Reinforcing the corners
To make it really sturdy, I used clamps to hold my frame in place on the workbench while I drove in small V-nails with a rubber mallet. These little metal nails really reinforce the corners. You can also use a staple gun if you have one; it works great.
Where to find them: I ordered my V-nails and setting tool online (search for "V-nails for framing" on Google). If you don't have the special tool, you can hammer them in with a small hammer, but go gently so you don't split the wood.
After removing all the blue tape, I sanded the whole thing with 180-grit sandpaper, slightly rounding the edges and corners. It gives it a much more finished look.
The finishing touch: varnish
To protect my frame and give it a nice finish, I set it on some scrap wood and applied two coats of matte acrylic varnish. I love the matte finish that doesn't shine and lets the beautiful natural color of the oak show through. Acrylic varnish is great because it dries super fast and barely smells.
Other options: You can also use satin varnish if you prefer a little shine, or beeswax for a more traditional look. And if you want some color, apply a primer first, then two coats of acrylic paint in the color of your choice.
Remember to mix your varnish well before applying it, and use a fairly small flat brush. Let it dry for 2 hours between coats.
Attaching the canvas to its new frame
Once everything was completely dry, I turned my frame over and pre-drilled small holes with a countersink bit before screwing it together. Why countersink? Because it lets the screw head sit recessed in the wood, so your frame sits flat against the wall.
What you’ll need: Screws 4 mm in diameter and 30 mm long are perfect. If you’re a beginner, buy a small combination drill bit set (about €15-20); it’s really handy.
I placed my canvas in the frame, making sure I had a small, even shadow line all the way around, then screwed through the frame directly into the stretcher bars.
Warning: Make sure your screws aren’t too long! You don’t want them going right through and puncturing your beautiful canvas. And work on a clean surface so you don’t scratch it.
If your canvas doesn’t already have a hanging system, get a small kit with D-rings and wire (just a few euros at a hardware store). Or use the sawtooth hanger method we explained in our other article about hanging.
What if you don’t have a miter saw?
Honestly, not everyone has a miter saw lying around in their garage. But don’t worry, there are plenty of workarounds:
Rent a saw: At Leroy Merlin or Kiloutou, you can rent a miter saw for €20-30 per day. Perfect if you have several frames to make at once.
Manual miter box: This is a small accessory that costs €15 and comes with a backsaw. It gets the job done, although it takes a bit more effort and is less precise than a power saw.
In-store cutting service: Many Leroy Merlin and Castorama stores will cut the pieces for you. Buy your strips, give them your measurements, and they’ll cut them. Then all you have to do is assemble everything at home.
Ready-made kits: Online, you can find frame kits pre-cut to the right dimensions, with the corners already cut. More expensive, but super convenient.
The floating frame: This style of frame has rails attached perpendicular around the canvas, without miter cuts. It has a very modern look and is much easier to make.
In summary
Making a frame for your canvas is something anyone can do. It takes a little time and patience, but the results are impressive. Your canvases will immediately look much more professional and polished, and it'll cost you three times less than going to a professional framer. L's important to measure carefully, take your time with the cuts, and not rush the finishing touches. The devil is in the details!
Frequently asked questions about framing canvases
Still have questions before getting started? Here are answers to the questions we get asked most often.
How much does it cost to have a canvas professionally framed?
A professional framer will charge between €50 and €200, depending on the size of your canvas and the type of frame you choose. For a standard 40 x 50 cm canvas with a classic wooden frame, expect to pay around €80-120. Making it yourself cuts the cost by a factor of 3 or 4. And if you're framing several canvases, it's even more cost-effective since you only need to buy extra wood.
Can you really make a frame without a miter saw?
Absolutely! You can rent a saw for the day (€20-30), use a manual miter box with a backsaw (around €15 for the set), or have the rails cut at the hardware store. You can also easily find pre-made frame kits online. A miter box is a great way to get started without spending a fortune on tools.
What's the difference between a regular frame and a floating frame?
A classic frame borders the canvas, with the rails almost touching the edges of the image. A floating frame is different: there's a small gap between the edge of the canvas and the frame. This makes the canvas look like it's “floating” in front of the wall. It looks especially nice with modern and contemporary canvases, and it's also easier to make because you don't need ultra-precise miter cuts.
